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I can't get my radiator to

turn down or off

wonderoushen  Female  Gwynedd 27-Dec-2019 10:15 Message #4766629
I usually have the radiator in my bedroom turned right down or off, but asvisitors were staying there I turned the radiator up and now despite turning the control knob back to half, its still belting out heat. The heating has been off for the night and come back on again including my rad, its like a summer night in there and to hot for me as I like to sleep in a cold room.

Any suggestions anyone, apart from calling a plumber?
Blue-Poppy  Female  East Yorkshire 27-Dec-2019 11:19 Message #4766639
A squirt of WD40?
jpv1960  Male  Middlesex 27-Dec-2019 11:22 Message #4766640
It sounds like the radiator valve is stuck. One thing you can try is to close the valve completely, see if it turns off the heat, if this works than turn the value back on slightly.
If this does not work, than turn off the other valve and turn it on just a little. This will not be thermostatic controlled so you will have better manual control.
Minnie-the-Minx  Female  Hertfordshire 27-Dec-2019 12:47 Message #4766650
I have the opposite problem. The radiators in both bedrooms aren't coming on.
Hierophant  Male  East Anglia 27-Dec-2019 13:17 Message #4766653
You should be able to remove the regulating valve (TRV) by unscrewing it.
If the valve is knackered it will probably fall apart in your hands and you will need a new one, if not you may need to free up the pin that sticks out of the brass coloured valve on the radiator. Give it a few pushes in with a pair of pliers or something, it should spring back freely.
Then you can screw the regulator valve back on...
persona_non_grata  Male  North London 27-Dec-2019 13:56 Message #4766655
Best advice. Unless you know a willing handyman call a plumber.
Hierophant  Male  East Anglia 27-Dec-2019 15:06 Message #4766658
The stuck pin thing is the cause in most cases especially if you don't alter the temperature setting very often.
It's a 5 minute job and very easy to do...
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 15:48 Message #4766660
Minnie - maybe need to check your Motorised Valve as to whether it is in the HW/HEAT/BOTH position. See link for what to look for.

Or on Programmer select heat only with HW off and see what happens.

I assume the boiler is firing up and ground floor heating is on normally?
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 15:51 Message #4766661
Yes Hiero - normal advice is to give the pin a sharp tap with a small hammer

There are vids on U-Tube for STUCK TRV
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 15:56 Message #4766663
wonderoushen - see my links/comments above

If you have a small adjustable spanner - do as suggested by OP and take head off other valve (opposite end of radiator from TRV) and screw down the flat sided pin sticking out of top - ie turn it clockwise to close it
Minnie-the-Minx  Female  Hertfordshire 27-Dec-2019 17:15 Message #4766666
Motorised valve? Pretty sure I don't have one of those, unless you mean on the boiler. Yes, all the other rads work.
Hierophant  Male  East Anglia 27-Dec-2019 17:23 Message #4766667
Stuck pin and/or they need bleeding...
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 17:29 Message #4766670
OK Minnie

Is your Boiler a Combi - no stored Hot Water tank in the house (ie upstairs in Airing Cupboard) as a Combi will not have the Motorised Diverter Valve ?

If you do have a Hot Tank it's called a System Boiler (most homes have this type). Latter type the boiler just heats water - but as needed the Motorised Valve swops over the flow to either heat water in the airing cupboard tank - or to heat all rads - or both.

I had exactly your problem 2 weeks ago and MV was stuck in wrong position - I moved it manually and all sorted.
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 17:38 Message #4766671
Minnie - you may also have same issue as W'HEN - ie a stuck pin in the TRV on bedroom rads.

Assuming you have TRVs on bedroom rads (mandatory for any new boiler installation/rad change since around 2004) then operating pin may be STUCK DOWN IN CLOSED POSITION. Solution is a sharp tap on head of the brass pin with a hammer etc - it should then pop up around a quarter of an inch and be able to be be pressed down against spring pressure.

You access that pin simply by unscrewing the upper part of TRV via the knurled chrome at bottom of plastic head - you may need an adjustable spanner - failing which a dry nylon pan scourer wrapped around it may loosen it if you have a strong grip.

BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 17:56 Message #4766672


See link for removing TRV head to access possibly stuck pin
wonderoushen  Female  Gwynedd 27-Dec-2019 18:21 Message #4766673
Thanks Heiro I will try that

Thanks everyone, sorry Boydell but I can't watch the videos as I have no speakers on my pooter.
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 18:38 Message #4766676
No need for sound on last vid W'HEN
leogirl  Female  Essex 27-Dec-2019 19:14 Message #4766677
The radiator in my study is on the blink and would not come on. I have been shown by my plumber how to reset the stuck pin, but I am not confident enough to tackle the job- even with clear instructions of BOYDEL.
I will have to wait until my son comes for the New Year visit.
Good Luck Hen .
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 27-Dec-2019 20:02 Message #4766682
Leogirl - there is nil risk pf any leaks when unjamming the TRV pin - always assuming that is the issue...
brisinger  Male  Lancashire 27-Dec-2019 23:32 Message #4766701
It may be just a good old therapeutic hammer job if the thermostat pin is stuck. It could be a sharp tap with a hammer to release the pin. It could be worth smearing a tiny amount of Vaseline on it to dislodge any particles that are causing it to stick.
Minnie-the-Minx  Female  Hertfordshire 28-Dec-2019 12:06 Message #4766726
Thanks for that, Boydel. I'll have a look later. What you say, sounds about right. No, it's not a combi boiler.
BOYDEL  Male  Surrey 28-Dec-2019 13:18 Message #4766728
Minnie - any GCH system without a Combi boiler will have a Motorised Valve - often fitted in airing cupboard on pipework connected to Hot Tank - their simple job is to divert hot water to whichever system needs it - heating or hot water or both.

MVs can and do often fail after a few years - most common failure being a burnt out Synchronous Motor (£18.79 from Screwfix) and they are a straightforward DIY change - BUT ONLY AFTER SWITCHING OFF ALL ELECTRICS.

The later DRAYTON MV has a detachable head which is easily unclipped from the brass body of the valve itself - enabling a simple DIY swop without draining down/refilling heating system - costs around £50 for the actuator head piece. With this type you can also remove head and move the brass flat headed pin manually - it should move by moderate finger pressure unless jammed - but note it moves only about 20 degrees (wear a glove if pipe is hot)

IMPORTANT NOTE - all MVs have a manual lever at one end to enable valve to be set OPEN for filling - this can also enable you to set the valve so that hot water from boiler goes to both CH/HW. Again loads of vids on U-Tube.

It is worth the effort to understand how these things work as it can save hundreds in plumber call outs
wonderoushen  Female  Gwynedd 29-Dec-2019 10:16 Message #4766759
Mine seems to have sorted itself out, I turned it off and on again and maybe that loosened a tight valve thingy, but it was so nice not to have to sleep in a warm room last night.

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